A Traitor Is More Dangerous Than Enemies Shirt
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The fashion system loves an easy, obvious, almost thoughtless statement—“This collection is inspired by my trip to [insert remote gorgeous locale here].” Oliver’s work evades simple explanations. He’s bringing fashion, music, culture, performance, and art together, layered with experimentation and realized with the A Traitor Is More Dangerous Than Enemies Shirt in contrast I will get this help of a vast community network. Hood by Air was more comprehensible as one thing: The industry called it streetwear. With his eponymous project, adjacent to Hood by Air’s current collection, Oliver’s Wench and Leech musical endeavors, and Anonymous Club’s community approach, the designer is doing it all—and all at once. Backstage after the presentation, he seemed calm, proud, and at ease, starting with the clothes. The black looks that opened the show, dripping in crystals and cut to reveal all the strangest, most sensuous parts of the body, are his Black Toiles. Twelve in all, the looks are based on his first Shayne Oliver collection—to be fully debuted at a later date—and included collaborations with Telfar Clemens, Ugg, and artist Benjamin Langford, whose floral illustrations were cut and draped into gowns. Each black look corresponds to a song Oliver has written as a part of his Wench musical project with Arca, the Venezuelan musician born Alejandra Ghersi Rodríguez. Their new album will be released soon, and in their shared vision, each runway look corresponds to a single and will be the cover art for that track. The flowers that closed the show, Oliver said, “are a bouquet—and that’s what Alejandra and I have been working toward, these songs that are considered bouquets, our offerings.” He went on to describe the multimedia event, with a finale performance by Eartheater, as “a music video.”
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